Shutter priority:
Use this mode to control the shutter speed of the camera. It is best to use in these situations:
- Local dark as auditoriums, when you need to stop motion, but can not use the flash.
- Settings where you want motion blur, like a mountain stream.
- Settings into stop that fast movement, such as insect wings or drop of water.
Set the camera to shutter priority and experiment with various things that move. You will be able to see the difference in the movement of the subject by varying the speed and letting the camera do the rest of the exposure settings.
Aperture Priority:
Use this mode to control the camera/lens aperture. Often this is used to force a “Wide Open” shooting, which will focus your subjects, but blur the background, or “stopped down” shutter, used to put all the objects in the viewfinder in focus.
Experiment with a couple of staging “still life” images and vary opening or “f-stop” opening wide as f/3.5 (wide open), of small openings like fps 8 of/11. Leave the camera set the rest of the settings, and then compare the images to see how the sharpness of the background changes as f-stop gets smaller.
ISO settings:
The ISO is a measure of the sensitivity of the image sensor. You can change the ISO to obtain specific results. Remember that the smaller ISO number means better quality but less light. So if you want the clearest, best image in daylight, ISO 50-100 may be perfect. Shooting in low light? Perhaps ISO 800, 1600, 3200 or higher would work for you. You get the exposure with more noise in them, but the movement of the subject will be minimized.
Change your ISO Auto, to 100, choose Aperture Priority of about 5.6, and then take a series of shots in a somewhat dark, such as an indoor room. Then change ISO from 100 to 200, 400, 800 and as high as the camera will go. Find the camera to choose faster shutter speed and shoot with, but the images will start to become noisy.
Macro mode:
The camera has at least one removable lens. Has a minimum distance of focus, meaning that it can not focus on much narrower than the images.
Please check in the manual or search online the minimum distance of focus and experiment with some close-up images. Some suggestions: extract certain elements of the kitchen, such as cereals or beans and do a close-up. Changing the f-stop and the angle of the camera to get some of the equipment in perfect focus and some blurred. Try office supplies, pets.
People perspective:
It is not intuitive, but the best images of people that can be taken at the farthest end of your zoom. When using the wide angle setting, you must approach your subject and, in doing so, your goal will be to distort the features closer, such as the nose. Taking a step back and zoom, into which you enter the characteristics of the subject in quite the same distance, so as to minimize the distortion.
Take a subject of cooperation and make a series of head and half body shots in full zoom range of your target, starting at wide angle, and stepping back, as you zoom in to maintain roughly the same proportions of the body. Then watch the series of images and see if you can detect the difference between the level / faces close and zoom / face away.
Monopod:
This is handy and inexpensive device allows you to create many good quality images even in low light. Has a wire that connects to the bottom of the SLR. Use as a walking stick when out and about, but if your camera has a shutter speed is less than about 1 / 250 of a second, and will keep your camera to move around too much.
Get a monopod and experiment with some hand shots, put the camera on the stick and take the same pictures. It works!